‘Every Cook Ought to Study Here’: Unassuming Turkish Eatery Ranks Fourth on Roll of London’s Leading Food Spots.

Whenever curating a list of London’s top eateries, one might foresee renowned award-winning establishments. Yet, nestled prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a outlying area of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

The compact Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This honour has left the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” says a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small place achieving such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the fare, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary honour.